In the Cucina

Cantina del Vecchio is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Lunch begins at noon, but the rush is from 2:00 until about 3:00 p.m. From 9:30 a.m. or so until the lunch rush, the morning is spent prepping -- making broths, chopping vegetables, trimming beef and such. 

Fresh vegetables and large paper bags full of crusty, wood-oven baked loaves arrive in the morning. Greens, such as spinach, which in the U.S. comes triple-washed in bags arrives au natural, gritty with earth and in small bunches which must be trimmed and washed. Today there is baby arugula gathered in bunches. And fresh zucchini flowers are sunny yellow with green stems, waiting to be stuffed with a mixture of Ricottta cheese and whipped egg whites. Today we separated the the delicate flowers from the stems and gently tore them along natural seams to be lated dusted with cornstarch and flash fried as a garnish for dinner's Cacio e Pepe. Rome's most famous cheese and fresh ground pepper pasta, Cacio e Pepe, ismade with nutty-flavored sheep's milk Pecorino cheese. Pecorino Romano (from Rome, right?) is the only cheese you can authentically use in this recipe. 

My friend Lisa wants only to know how to make Cacio e Pepe -- it's her favorite. So while Chef Paolo prepared, I grabbed a pen and a scrap of paper and scribbled down as much as I could figure out -- eyeballing the measurements. Of course, I could only hope to repeat this as Paolo prepared. Here goes. 

Cacio e Pepe

NOTE: The pasta must be very al dente, which may seem a bit raw for American's. Still, avoid the urge to cook the pasta until soft. 

12 ounces dry spaghetti

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup or more vegetable broth

1 cup each of finely grated Parmesan and Pecorino Romano cheeses

1-2 tsp. fresh coarse ground pepper or more to taste

Place a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. When the water is boiling vigorously, add the pasta and stir it so it doesn't stick together in the water. 

While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tsp. fresh coarsely ground black pepper. Cook the pepper until it begins to sizzle and pop. Add the broth (be careful, it will steam). When the pasta is just al dente (do not overcook), quickly drain (DO NOT RINSE) the pasta and add it to the skillet. Toss the pasta in the oil. Keep tossing until completely incorporated. Add the cheese, 1/2-cup at a time, tossing and stirring well to incorporate. As the cheese melts, it will create a creamy sauce. Divide the pasta among 4 large warm shallow bowls or plates. Sprinkle with more pepper and a grating of fresh Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately. Makes 4 large servings or 8 appetizer servings.