Monday, March 23, 2009

In the Cucina #5


At Cantina del Vecchio, food is prepared at the moment. There are not vats of cooked pastas waiting to be heated. Other than long-cooking sauces and some entrees, risotto, pasta for instance is made to order. 

Risotto, which most magazine and cookbook recipes specify takes at least 30 minutes to cook, is made in about 20 at Cantina. They make it in a skillet and, as when they prepare pastas, use a tossing motion to incorporate sauces. I call this motion tossing, because the skillet is taken off the heat in one hand, and  its contents tossed up and out of the pan and back and forth at the same time. This gives the pasta and risotto a creamy texture as liquids and cheese are incorporated. Risotto and pasta are served very al dente -- more so that what most American's think of as dente. 

It takes practice to get this motion right, as American pancake flippers will tell you. But once you do, you'll use the motion for everything from turning eggs to tossing your own pasta. Your first attempts may find some of the food on the floor or in your face or on your clothes (so I hear), but practice does make perfect.  

The following  recipe doesn't call for tossing, but stirring in a pot. This is an easier way to make it, especially if you're making more than two servings. It's not the Cantina version, but it produces a creamy, delicious meal. Don't overcook risotto or it'll turn into a soggy mush. 

If you feel like using the toss and turn method, have at it. 
Basic Risotto
This is a basic recipe for risotto -- add other ingredients like saffron (with the broth), or sauteed mushrooms or fresh vegetables (at the end) as you like. 
 
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cups chopped onion
1 1/2 cups arborio rice (not regular long grain rice)
1/2 cup white wine
4-5 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 cup fresh finely grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil to drizzle over risotto

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute until the until softened. Add the arborio and cook, stirring for about a minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine is absorbed. Add the broth, one cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the broth is absorbed after each addition. Cook until the risotto is creamy, but still al dente. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the cheese and serve immediately, drizzled with olive oil and addtional cheese. Makes 4 servings.

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