Dancing Queen

If there is a theme song to my experience in Rome, it's Abba's "Dancing Queen." In fact Abba's greatest hits was always playing in the background somewhere in the restaurant.  Chef Paolo would connect his cell-phone to small speakers in the kitchen and kick on the tunes. Everyone in the kitchen would sing along. 

Chef Paolo, a musician as well as a chef, would begin to cook and dance at the same time. I called him the dancing chef. At times he would get wild, tossing pasta, creating sauces, grilling and sauteeing, with feet and head moving in rhythm to the beat. 

I tried to videotape Paolo (I wanted to secretly post it on YouTube), but each time I whipped out my Flip camcorder, he suddenly became shy. 

Occasionally when it became too loud in the kitchen, what with all the singing and dancing, someone would peek into the kitchen and tell us "basso" -- quiet! 

Allan and Vittorio

Cantina del Vecchio



VittorioCantina del Vecchio has two main partners -- Allan and Vittorio -- and one of them is in the "front of the house," in the restaurant dining room, at all times.  That's seven days a week, from early morning until late -- really late. 

Allan is British born, but has lived in Italy for 35 years. Despite his many years in Rome, he still exudes a British "air" about him -- at first a bit aloof -- with a quiet manner. He's never loud (ever).

He's an observer and expert on social nuance. He's the one I would ask for translations (I could get along mostly with my broken Italian, copious gesticulation and charades). I counted on his perfect Italian and he never failed to explain to me not just pronunciation, but the musicality of the language. Words in Italian (more so than in English), depend so much on delivery. 

Allan is a true foodie. He loves cuisine and as a trained professional sommelier (from Rome's Hilton school) will always a recommend the perfect wine pairing for every dish.  He's the one I searched for approbation in everything. A compliment from Allan means something. 

Vittorio is so warm, he is (as Raquel would say) practically in flames. He speaks passionately and always with his hands. He is what I think of when I think of the Roman "manner." Of course, he IS Italian. He is quick with a smile and downright affectionate -- appropriately of course.

Vitorrio, too, knows and loves food. He has an Italian chic sense of style and seems to always be concerned about eating too many carbs. It's hard to be strict with Cantina's perfect pastas and intoxicating desserts. For him, the kitchen prepares meats and fish seared and never includes potatoes or other any other starchy foods. But you could tell he really missed them and would occasionally indulge (passionately), as I saw him a few times, eating even a bit of the kitchen's luxurious rosemary roasted potatoes (see recipe below) or a molten chocolate tortino or layered "mille foglia" -- a Napolean by any other name. Each time I would comment, "no carbiodrato!"   

Roasted Rosemary Potatoes

2 pounds peeled new or gold potatoes

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Finely ground sea salt to taste

2 Tbsp. rosemary leaves

Preheat oven to 450-degrees F. Line a baking sheet with sides with parchment or spray with nonstick cooking spray. 

Peel and cut the potatoes into 1/2-inch cubes and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle the oil over and toss well. Sprinkle with salt and rosemary and toss well with your hands. Spread the potatoes over the baking sheet in a single layer. Roast, uncovered, for 30-minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and lightly golden. Makes 6 servings. 

Earthquake Near Rome

ROME, Italy (CNN) -- A 6.3-magnitude earthquake struck central Italy early Monday, less than six hours after another quake hit the northern part of the country, the U.S. Geological Survey said.

A spokesman with the Italian civil protection agency said had received reports of collapsed buildings, and officials believe there were possible casualties.

The quake struck at 3:32 a.m. (9:32 p.m. ET Sunday) about 95 kilometers (60 miles) northeast of Rome and about 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) deep.

Rescuers were called out to the city of L'Aquila, at the quake's epicenter.

At about 10:20 p.m. (4:20 p.m. ET) Sunday, a 4.6-magnitude earthquake hit northern Italy, about 55 km (35 miles) southeast of Bologna at a depth was 6.4 kilometers (4 miles), the agency said. 

In the Cucina #8: Knuckles

Not all Italian pasta is made the same. Gnocchi literally means knuckles, in Italian. Indeed these little dumplings do remind you of a hand's knuckles when you make a fist. At Cantina del Vecchio, one of their most delicious dishes is gnocchi, made fresh as needed. You won't find it on the menu, though. Instead there are notes at the bottom of the lunch and dinner menu, "I primi classici della tradizione romana sono sempre disponibile," -- The traditional Roman pasta dishes are always available." To Romans and those in the know, it's assumed you know what these dishes are (if you're Roman, you know what these are -- just ask). 

Anyway, gnocchi are at their most basic, made with potato, egg and flour. What can be added to the recipe -- pumpkin, spinach, herbs, cheese -- is completely up the gnocchi-maker. The dough should be pretty soft or, when cooked, the dumplings turn into heavy gut bombs. If you've ever had weighty gnocchi, you know what I mean. You feel it all day. Not good. 

The dough is then rolled into long ropes and cut into pieces. It's boiled for just a couple of minutes until they rise to the surface. Cook them too long and they turn into a glue. 

Here is my version Gnocchi.  

Gnocchi

There are countless recipes for gnocchi (pronounced nyow-kee)– which means “knuckles” in Italian. Some call for nutmeg or added cheese, many are flavored with herbs or vegetables like spinach or pumpkin. This is a basic gnocchi. These aren’t shaped and don’t include the “thumbprint” indentation you often see in these little potato dumplings.

4 Russet or Idaho potatoes (about 2 pounds)

1 large egg

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups flour, or more as needed

Peal the potatoes and cut into 2-inch chunks. Place in a pot filled with cold water and 1 tsp. salt. Bring the water to a boil over high heat and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain very well and allow to cool for about 5 minutes. 

Use a potato ricer to mash the potatoes (or beat them in a mixer) into a large bowl. Form a well in the center of the potatoes and add the egg and salt. Add about 1 cup of flour the potatoes and, using a rubber spatula, stir in the flour until incorporated.

Flour a clean surface and turn the potato mixture on the surface. Using both hands, begin to stir and knead the dough, adding the flour and working it in until the mixture forms a soft, sort of sticky dough (you’ll know the dough is ready when you can pinch off a piece, roll it into a small ball and it holds it’s shape – it should still be quite soft).

Dust the surface again with flour. Cut the dough into six pieces. Roll the dough (like Play-Dough into a 1/2-inch diameter (thick) rope 1/2 inch thick, flouring the dough if necessary as you roll to keep it from sticking. Cut the dough into 1/2-inch pieces. Place the dough on a floured or cornmeal sprinkled baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. Chill if you’re using within the next day or freeze (freeze on the baking sheet – when frozen solid, transfer to a zipper bag), until ready to cook.

To cook gnocchi:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Drop half the gnocchi (or all of it if your pot is really big) into the boiling water a few at a time. Stir the water to make sure the gnocchi don’t stick together. Cook until the dumplings rise to the surface. Cook the gnocchi, stirring gently, until tender, about 1 minute after they rise to the surface.

Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon or skimmer, draining in the spoon and keep warm in a warm oven (on an olive oil coated dish or baking sheet). When all is cooked, add sauce and grated cheese as desired. Makes 8 servings.

The 8th Hill of Rome

The third night in Rome Lisa took me to an amazing party. The guest of honor was CSI New York's Hill Harper (click on the title above this post and you'll get more info about Hill Harper). Harper plays Dr. Sheldon Hawkes, the coroner on the show and was in Rome to speak to kids about ... oh I don't know. But the Embassy was throwing a bash for him and my well-connected friend Lisa was invited.

The party was teeming with celebs -- Italian actors, TV personalities, movie directors, singers, big time judges, US Embassy folk, Hill Harper and me. 

Long story short, I found Hill and we talked and talked. I whipped out my new FLIP video camera, handed it to who knows who and told them to start recording. I told Hill that my daughter Raquel's favorite show is CSI (it's absolutely true) and that's she's studying theatre at Columbia in Chicago. He said he was just at Columbia a few months ago talking at the college. 

Raquel later told me that Hill is pals with Barack Obama (she thinks they went to Harvard together -- Hill is a Harvard Law School grad). He sent a shout out to Raquel telling her to stick with acting! 

Well, in 2004, Hill was named one of People Magazine's sexiest men alive. And, honey, he is! Check him out here with yours truly. 

In the Cucina #7

The code phrase for a romantic encounter in Roma is "Allora ... andiamo a prendere un caffe," or let's get coffee. If someone asks you for coffee or a drink or conversation, it's because they are interested in some sort of nookie -- they are "flirtare," flirting with you. 

I have decided that every man in Italy flirts. 

Since it was decided in Cantina's kitchen that, "in the kitchen, we are all men," it wasn't long before I was part of the gang, so, no more holding back anything -- including, swearing, burping and flirting (not with me!) with every "bella regazza," pretty girl. One afternoon, a young cook practically begged the sweet cuban waitress, Dana "ti va un caffe." She said no. She always said no. 

And these guys all have real girlfriends. 

When a "bella regazza" entered the restaurant there was a flurry of excitement in the kitchen. I was constantly rolling my eyes when talk about these regazzas started. If she was, say, amply endowed in some way, hands gesticulated to show just how big. Or when a table of women entered, the questions were always, "are they pretty?" Special service with an extra big smile for these women. 

Later NOTE: On the way back to the Rome airport at the end of my trip, the gruff looking. 50-something taxi driver, Paolo, began playing a Brazilian music CD in his standard-issue white cab. As the Carnaval sounds of "Partido da Vida" played in the background, Paolo became increasingly happy during the 40-minute ride. With my positive reaction to the Brazilian music, he turned the volume way up. 

A few minutes before reaching the airport, he asked me to stop with him for coffee! Sorry, I can't -- I have a plane to catch. Only in Italy! 

Non Si Butta Niente.

One of the first phrases Allan, owner of Cantina del Vecchio, translated into Italian for me was "non si butta niente," don't throw anything away. 

I'm frugal. I'm resourceful, I'm an environmentalist of sorts. I must have a depression mentality because it's hard for me to throw anything remotely useful away. Which is why every year when I purge my house of superfluosity, I call the Salvation Army or Purple Heart rather than bag it and trash it. 

So, when I saw the perfectly good ends of red bell peppers find their way to the special compost rubbish tin, I nearly burst an artery. I fished them out, washed them and asked, "can I have these." Of course. I carefully wrapped the pepper ends in pellicola (plastic wrap) to take home to chop and add to fritatta (bell pepper in fritatta -- they thought I was crazy). From then on, "non si butta niente" became my mantra. On a day when fresh orange juice was being squeezed, I snatched up the peels and made candied orange peel, which Guiseppe, from Palermo, said was absolutely Sicilian (see my recipe below).

You might be wondering, how can they be so wasteful! Here's the answer. In a commercial kitchen, there is a lot of rushing around. Here, time IS money. To spend an extra 30 minutes cutting citrus peel into thin strips and boiling it three-times before rolling it in sugar costs more in time money than the finished product is financially worth. Sometimes it's simply not economical to use everything. 

I would say to the kitchen staff, "See these peppers? They cost $3 a pound in the U.S. This is about 1 Euro worth -- if you found a Euro on the ground, would you pick it up?"

For the rest of my time in the kitchen, the staff jokingly taunted me when the dish-washing person threw away any food (usually it was from diners' plates who didn't finish their meals). And I always answered "che peccato" -- what a shame. 

Candied Orange Peel

You can use any citrus peel for this. Mine is a simplified recipe in that I don't cook the peel in sugar syrup. But everyone agreed it was delicious. 

6 large oranges (with thicker skin)

Water

Granulated sugar for dredging the cooked orange peel

Cut the peel fro to remove most of the white part, the pith. Cut the peel into thin strips and place in a medium saucepan. Cover the peels with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat slightly and cook the peel for about 5 minutes. Drain and repeat the process two more times. Drain the peel for the last time and place the peels in a dish or on a baking sheet with sides. Add sugar (about 1 cup is more than enough) and toss the peels so that they're well coated.  Spread the candied peels on the baking sheet and leave out overnight to dry. 

When no longer wet or very sticky, the peels are ready to eat. Makes about 2 cups of candied peel.   

In Lisa I Trust

Lisa Tucci, my friend and guardian angel in Rome, is amazing. If you simply suggest an idea, she will take said idea and make it happen. A rain-maker if you will. And I trust her (oh, yes, I do) when she tells me to do something. She says "salta" and I say, "how high?" That's why when she had me on my first day in Rome take a bus to the suburbs late at night with nary an Italian word in my vocabulary, I did it without question (it turned out okay, despite the wrong bus debacle). 

After all, she did find me my job at Cantina del Vecchio and my penthouse digs in the heart of the most desirable neighborhood in ancient Rome. And she did take me to the quite intimate party where Hill Harper (star of CSI: New York) was the guest of honor. 

So, when on one of our few visits together she took me to Rome's Gianicolo one sunset eve and said trust me, it's worth it, I trusted. 

Gianicolo, or Janiculum Hill, is across the river. A winding drive up the hill and the vista is spectacular -- Rome is literally at your feet, bathed in the golden glow of the setting sun. You can see the hills of Rome (not all seveb, I believe, but certainly some of them). No wonder this romantic place is also known as a, if not the, Lover's Lane of bella Roma. 

Even as we were ascending the hill in Lisa's red Honda Civic, the beauty inspired an actual gasp -- and I'm no gasper (I've seen the Taj Mahal, I've walked the Great Wall, I've seen Jesus -- that is in Rio de Janeiro). Yeah, it was that stunning.

There are, course, other sights at Gianiculo. What's any Roman clearing without a fountain -- the Fontana dell'Acqua is a popular spot for wedding portraits to be taken. Then there's the Garibaldi monument. Apparently, according to Lisa (who I trust), Guiseppe Garibaldi helped unite Italy and fought against French attacks on Rome. Apparently, his the pregnant wife accompanied him into battle, so there is a monument in her honor nearby as well. 

At the top of the hill, as in any touristic spot in Rome, you can buy snacks at vending truck. It was here that I spotted him -- the cotton candy vendor. Since cotton-candy is one of my favorite foods (I can hear my mother saying in her Brazilian accent, "you have verrrrry infantile tastes"), I had to pay the 2 Euro (around $3) for the penny's worth of spun sugar on a stick. Zucchero filato and the best view of Rome. Does it get better than this?

For some wonderful musings on all things Italy -- check out Lisa's blog at www.burntbythetuscansun.blogspot.com